Another early start and I depart, this time with a group of Deputy Ambassadors from EU countries, on a study visit to Kars in the far north east of the country. The mountain peaks are still capped with snow at the start of June; the belle epoque architecture shows that this was part of Russia from 1878 till 1920.

We want to talk primarily about relations with Armenia - broken off by Turkey in 1993 in response to the war between Armenia and Azerbaijan - and about preparations for and attitudes towards rapprochement. But we find answers from our political contacts hard to come by.

The local Chamber of Commerce is more forthcoming: the global economic crisis has hit them hard and they want preferential treatment, incentives packages and easier access to EU markets to help them through. We spend the afternoon talking to local lawyers, NGOs and students about everything from environmental protection and sustainable development to strengthening civil society and countering radlicalisation.

the Turkish/Armenian border, defined by the Apra Cayi or Ahuryan river

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